The Samba Parade became too big for improvisations. Until the mid-eighties bleachers were assembled and disassembled every year on Av. Presidente Vargas. Samba Schools longed for and deserved a more professional site to perform.

Governor Leonel Brizola believed in this dream, and in October 1983 he hired no one less than Niemeyer, Brazil's most prominent architect. Niemeyer more than lived up to the challenge of devising and building the Sambodrome within 110 days. "We built the capital Brasilia in four years. We certainly can build the Sambodrome in four months." The master was right.

On March 2, 1984 the Sambodrome was inaugurated. Marques de Sapucaí was the street chosen by Vice-Governor Darcy Ribeiro. It holds historical ties with samba: Praça Onze is recognized as the birthplace of the most famous Brazilian beat. The structure is officially named Passarela do Samba Darcy Ribeiro, and it is the permanent home of the Samba Parade. Mangueira won in 1984, in case you are wondering.

Meet the Sambodrome!

The Sambodrome consists of several independent concrete structures along both sides of Av. Marquês de Sapucaí. The pavement of the street itself is painted white a few days before Carnival, and turned samba runway (or passarela). It ends at the Apotheosis Square, crowned by a large M in concrete, vaguely reminding the symbol of a fast-food chain.

During the school year, parts of this structure are used as classrooms by public schools. The Square is often stage for shows, and major bands have already performed here. When Carnival magic takes over, the Sambodrome is the setting to the greatest show on earth.

The Sambodrome is divided in sectors (see photo map), and each sector has different kinds of seats. Camarotes (or mezzanine boxes) are the most coveted positions. Being invited to a box means you are someone in Rio's society. And then there's all the free food and drinks, of course. This is where you get to meet international stars, socialites, soccer players, politicians, diplomats, and fashion models. Some always misbehave, giving plenty of material for the tabloids and gossip columns to explore.

Something they forget to tell you is that box windows are never wide enough to accommodate everybody at the same time. Unless you are the guest of honor, chances are you will be watching the parade over someone's shoulder. A position in a good catered box may cost as much as US$1,500, if you have to pay your way in. There are boxes on the ground, first and second-floor levels. Each individual box has a total of twelve seats, and they can be joined into larger boxes taking over a whole window.

Cadeiras de pista have been replaced by more comfortable frisas, or runway boxes. These are numbered sets of six seats with a small coffee table. Individual seats are usually priced around US$500-700. Frisas are street level, offering a very close view to the parade. There are only four rows of frisas in each odd sector, the number of seats is quite limited. The first row is the most expensive.

Arquibancadas (bleachers or "grand stand") are the most reasonably priced (though not cheap) seats. The elevated position gives you a better idea of schools as a group. A ticket to the tourist sector with numbered seats goes for about US$500 or so. There aren't actual chairs to sit on - bleachers are not much more than big concrete steps. Since most people stand to dance while schools pass, chairs would really be more of an inconvenience. Standard sectors (without numbered seats) are lower priced.

There are snack bars, refreshment stands and restrooms in all sector. They are kept clean under the constant supervision of janitors. You also have access to a promenade within the Sambodrome, right behind the bleachers. It is lined up with restaurants, ice-cream stands, shops with souvenirs, and more restrooms. They also sell disposable rain jackets when the weather is cloudy. The largest food court behind Sector 11.

Choosing the Right Sector

Click for full-sized map

Getting to the Sambodrome is easy. There is a radio-taxi company officially authorized to provide transfers. They have a special sticker that gives them free access to drop you off at the entrance to your sector. The rate is fixed - about US$40 each way. These taxis are comfortable, air-conditioned, and as many as 4 passengers may share the costs. Whenever you are ready to leave, they are stationed inside the Sambodrome, between Sectors 9 and 11. Chartered buses are an alternative, yet the round-trip fare is about US$20. They only make sense if you are by yourself, and feel more comfortable with a group. Yellow cabs will cost a little less if they run by the meter, but some drivers try to take advantage, and charge even more! The subway is the cheapest option, but the stop is a few blocks away. Use the maps below to find your way around Now let's see which are the good, the best, and the not-so-good sectors. Starting with the odd-numbered side, the best sectors to stay at are 9, 7, 11, 5 and 3, in this order.

Sector 9

is available through travel agencies only. Seats are reserved mostly for tourists, and prices are twice as high. The big advantage is that this sector has numbered seats, so you don't have to ask someone to save yours while while you stretch your legs during the intermissions. This sector shares with Sector 11 an area known as recuo da bateria (the drummers' niche). When schools pass by the percussion band, things tend to get hotter - and you enjoy the benefits. On the down side, some tourists do not understand that the audience is supposed to stand, dance and sing along. If you get carried away and do what you are supposed to, some sourpuss from hell may start yelling at you to sit down...

Sector 11

changes personality almost every year. It has been reserved to travelers that come to Rio with those huge ships. Seats were numbered, the view great, but these travelers tend to do everything together. As their buses left back to the ship very early, this became a ghost sector after the third of fourth school. In the last couple of years half the sector was purchased by a supermarket to be distributed as a prize drawn among lucky buyers. Seats were not numbered.

Sectors 7

is the most central, and the most expensive of the standard sectors. Sectors 5 and 3 are good alternatives, with lower-priced (yet still expensive) tickets. Keep in mind that seats in these sectors do not have numbered seats. If you were thinking about arriving early to get the front-row, forget about it. There are people willing to arrive a day before the show, and you can't compete with that. At standard sectors things are not like in Sector 9. Try sitting while a school is marching, and you will get a great view... to the legs of whomever should be sitting in front of you. Do like locals: stand up and dance - it's much more fun anyway.

Sector 1

is the only low-priced sector that offers a good view to the samba schools - as they enter the Sambodrome. All schools want to cause a good first impression, and make everybody stand and cheer. This is a very loud and lively area populated mostly by locals. It's not a right choice for an elderly couple but a great bet for a group of young backpackers.

Sector 13

is recessed, and you have a very limited view until schools are just about to leave the runway. Tickets to these sectors are much cheaper and go for sale on Carnival week only, if at all. Sometimes they distributed by LIESA (the league of Samba Schools) directly to people from the community who could not afford to go otherwise.

A few years ago they built additional structures between odd sectors. Sector 3-A/B is between Sector 3 and 5, Sector 5-A/B is between Sector 5 and 7, and so forth. They offer air-conditioned seats, and prices are often the same charged for catered mezzanine boxes. Because of their size they are sometimes called "super-camarotes".

The even-numbered side across the street is easier to picture.

Sector 2

is the long strip with three levels of camarotes, the catered mezzanine boxes we talked about. Most boxes are air-conditioned, and a couple even have showers, masseurs, gourmet chefs, and other comforts for guests! A basic box is big enough for 12, and you can have several boxes arranged together in a row (if you can afford it, that is). 2A is on ground-floor level, 2B in the middle, and 2C is the top row. There are also mezzanine boxes on the odd sector, underneath the bleachers. They include the mayor's and the governor's boxes, and jury stands.

Sector 4

is recessed, and the view to the parade is partially blocked by sector 2. It is not a very good choice, except for the frisas on the front. Sector 6 is even more recessed, and you see the schools only as they leave the runway. Bring a portable TV just in case... By the way, sectors 8, 10 and 12 do not exist. If you are offered tickets to these areas, pay with your US$3 bills.

Tickets to the Sambodrome consist of two parts: a magnetic card, and a plastic tag that you to hang around the neck. Though it would make a cute souvenir, you have to hand in the neat magnetic card at the door. The plastic tag remains with you, and gives access to your specific sector and seat. Lose it, and you are stuck in the promenade, with access only to the refreshment stands.

To avoid frauds, tickets are only distributed a week before Carnival. Buy yours from a reliable source to avoid major disappointments. Never buy tickets from scalpers at the door. Chances are they have already been used, and you will not be able to get in. If you are, you may be stuck in limbo, without access to any specific sector. Don't expect miracles either. We always get e-mail from travelers who claim they heard from a friend of a friend that after midnight they give discounts, or even let people in for free. Good urban legend!

Sambodrome Etiquette

It's very safe inside the Sambodrome. You are welcome to bring your camera or camcorder. You may bring along two food items and one drink (can or plastic bottle). There are plenty of refreshment stands inside, though, so don't bother bringing the extra weight. Bring instead extra batteries and, if you still go analog, rolls of film (available inside, yet very expensive). Wear comfortable clothes that breathe, shoes that actually protect your feet, bring a disposable seat cushion, and you are all set.

If you cannot afford a ticket, watch the schools line up at the Concentration, instead. As this is an open area, though, pickpockets may try to take advantage of the crowds. Bring a disposable camera to avoid problems. You can later stretch the night at the Terreirão do Samba or at Lapa there's Rio Folia, with free live music shows and loads of fun.

Now a special note on your behavior. The Samba Parade is roughly a combination of an opera, and a sing-along. You are not supposed to remain seated neatly as the samba schools pass, it's exactly the wrong thing to do! The school will get the impression that they are not doing a good job, otherwise you would be standing, cheering and dancing. If you are tired go for a walk, drink an expresso, get something to eat, and come back when you are ready for more.

If you must remain seated due to some health problem or something, at least don't keep asking other people to sit down while they are having the time of their lives. This is considered to be very rude, and it certainly will not make you the most popular person in your sector. Be a sport. You can always sit down during the intermissions, or when you ride the taxi back to your hotel...