We keep getting e-mail from all over the world with the very same question: where can I
meet locals, and make new friends (or maybe start a romance)? First you
should learn a little about Cariocas,
and their ways. After this brief introduction you are ready to go out,
and get to know lots of interesting people in Rio. One of your best bets
are Rio's famous Baixos (BY-shows). These are South
Side streets that gather several cafés, bars and restaurants. They are
natural meeting spots for the young and restless, and the young at
heart. The atmosphere is usually friendly and relaxed.
If you are coming from a country with tight drinking regulations,
note that the concept of brown-bagging is completely alien to Brazilians
(and laughable, if you try to explain it). Even simple street bars,
known as botequins or pés-sujos, are licensed - and you do not have to
hide what you are drinking! Beer and shots of cachaça or caipirinha are
available everywhere, even at the beach. You will probably take a taxi
back to your hotel, anyway, so you don't have to worry about drinking
and driving. If you are coming from the US, be advised that smoking
cigarettes is allowed at all venues.
In Ipanema there's Baixo Farme on Rua Farme the Amoedo, between
Visconde de Pirajá and Barão da Torre), and Baixo Quitéria on Rua
Maria Quitéria, between Visconde de Pirajá and Prudente de Morais.
Baixo Gay is on the beach block of Rua Teixeira de Melo. The Ipanema
sector of Lagoa (Rua Epitácio Pessoa) is also home to excellent cafes,
restaurants, nightclubs, and gourmet food kiosks - including Belmonte and Botequim Informal.
Baixo Leblon, one of the most traditional Baixos, is on Rua Dias
Ferreira and at the end of Rua Ataulfo de Paiva opposite Ipanema. It's
been a staple since the 70's. Bracarense and Jobi are the most
traditional choices, with delicious snacks (petiscos) and a loyal
following. Guanabara, that remains open until very late, is where
you stop for a pizza in the wee hours. For a Mexican flavor (including
tequila-based drinks) Guapo Loco is the right place to go
to.
The area surrounding Cine Leblon has
similar characteristics (see movie theaters).
The action is around Clipper, a botequim that is the gathering spot after any major soccer game. Cobal, Leblon's
farmers' market, is yet another popular Baixo in this deliciously
bohemian neighborhood. Some cafes feature live music,
and there may even be a small dance floor. The
other Cobal, in Humaita, is also very popular. Ask for a pizza and an
ice-cold draft at Pizza Park.
In Copacabana, the closest version of a Baixo is Av. Atlantica
itself, with a succession of cafes, restaurants, and nightclubs. Do not
be surprised if you see street girls and trannies strutting their stuff
- it's part of the colorful scene. There are many venues on
cross-streets, too. Walk around and find gems like Cervantes in Lido (reputedly the best sandwiches in Rio), or Bip-Bip,
with legendary jam sessions. Baixo Lido features a succession of
world-famous strip clubs and bars on and near Av. Princesa Isabel.
Other sure bet is Baixo Gávea, at Praça Santos Dumont and
surroundings. It is one of the most popular areas, and authorities even
tried to implement a curfew, as local residents keep complaining about
the noise. Arrive early if you want to compete for a table at
either Braseiro or Hipodromo.
Some of the city's most traditional cafes and bars are in Centro. Go
on a downtown historical tour,
and later stop at world-famous Bar Luiz for a hearty
German style meal. People love to get together in Cinelândia for a beer
after work at either Café Amarelinho, or
neighboring Verdinho. You can safely take the subway back to Copacabana.
Lapa is another traditional spot that concentrates a number of cool bars and cafés.
It went through a revival in recent years with new bars with pocket
shows, live music and dance floors. Try Sacrilegio (Sacrilege)
where the greatest sin is not doing the samba while enjoying an ice-cold
draft. The most popular sport is people-watching, and if you are broke you can do it sipping a beer on the street.
Barra is the place for theme bars and cafes. As
most everything else in this peculiar neighborhood, they are often
stationed at the huge malls. Rock and roll fans may wine and dine among
memorabilia at Hard Rock Cafe. Another option is
Shopping Downtown, that gathers a number of bars including some with
live music, such as the Galeria Gourmet.
Last but not least is Jardim Botanico, near Gavea. Caroline
Cafe, Saturnino and Jota Bar are meeting spots for beautiful people, and
the petiscos (snacks) are delicious. Devassa, that is a
bar and brewery, is also very popular - needless to say that the beer is
the main attraction.
